France hits Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees

France has begun imposing fees on fast‑track apparel that could reach around €20 per garment by 2030, as the government seeks to curb revenue from inexpensive clothing sold by e‑commerce sites. The levy took effect on Tuesday, following a bill passed in June that targets alleged "ultra-fast fashion" companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress. Officials say the platforms, known for moving large volumes of low‑cost apparel, have driven a surge in ultra‑fast fashion. China’s commerce ministry labelled the French measure discriminatory and a trade barrier, warning it could breach World Trade Organization (WTO) principles. French minister Mathieu Lefevre said the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy were "well known". In July, Lefevre’s office stated the charge would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some observers to argue the measure spares European firms. Under the law, ultra‑fast fashion is defined by two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The fee for each item will vary on a sliding scale according to how each product scores on those criteria. For 2026, the charges range from a €0.50 (£0.43) levy on underwear to €2 (£1.71) for T‑shirts, €9 (£7.71) for jeans and €12 (£10.28) for a jacket. By 2030 the levy could rise to as much as €19.50 (£16.71/$22.60) per item, although the cap remains set at 50 % of the product’s pre‑tax price.